2499, Demani Wada, Cuncolim.
Mob: 98229 86793, 97643 16148.
Daily 8.30am-noon, 2pm-6pm.
I was thrilled to find the village of the Chitari craftsmen, and to meet Prakash, who is one of the few remaining craftsmen continuing the family craft of ornately painted and lacquered wooden articles. The small workshop is adjacent to his house and tucked deep inside the village. He has limited stock on hand, but you may be able to buy a puja (prayer) table or stool for around R400 or, my favourite, the expandable hanger for just 300. Also available are the cutting boards (advolis) used for cleaning fish and shredding coconuts, these are unpainted and sell for around 300.
You need to be pretty committed to tracking Prakash down and your driver needs to be able to chat in Konkani with him. Take the main road from Margao to Palolem and, after the Cuncolim market and Maco’s Restaurant, take a left just before the truck yard, and then a right and another right.